Category : Europe

Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)
Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)

Wanted to visit Banja Koviljacha spa center, and this is a short reminder of a legend regarding the place – before we go through Loznica town in the next Glimpse and before we actually reach Banja Koviljacha.

Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)
Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)

„Officer persuaded me to take a Highland ramble into the Gutchevo range, and first visit Tronosha… Ascending rapidly, we were soon lost in the woods, catching only now and then a view of the golden plain through the dark green oaks and pines.

Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)
Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)

On our way from Kaona Monastery, we didn’t go to the main road from Trshic village, since the town of Loznica iz only seven kilometers away – following some „shortcut“. But, what we didn’t know is that this road section was at the time utterly unusable. A lot of dirt, or sand was it? It

Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)
Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)

„Through the richest land, forming part of the ancient banat of Matchva, which was in the earlier periods of Servian and Hungarian history so often a source of conflict and contention, we approached distant grey hills, which gradually rose from the horizon, and, losing their indistinctness, revealed a chain so charmingly accidented, that I quickened

Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)
Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)

Even though our British diplomat didn’t get the chance to go to Kaona hill on the way to Loznica town, hidden by the forest and that curvy road that goes up and down, we were advised to make a quick stop to the Kaona Monastery. “Serene place”, they said, “beautiful temple in the middle of

Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)
Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)

On our way towards the Sava river, we passed by small craft stores and there were railway tracks as we were told (an old small train just went by!), and then the small intersection. It’s not possible to go to the shore just like that because there is no paved river bank.

Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)
Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)

Different influences are still to be seen in Shabac: downtown area has an old Austria-Hungarian charm, while small streets towards Sava river kept the feel of the Orient. The town was under the rule of both throughout history. There on Sava bank, there lies the famous fortress. It dates back to the 15th century when

Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)
Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)

„Surrendering our horses to the care of the khan keeper, I proceeded to the konak, or government house, to present my letters. This proved to be a large building, in the style of Constantinople, which, with its line of bow windows, and kiosk-fashioned rooms, surmounted with projecting roofs, might have passed muster on the Bosphorus.

Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)
Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)

So, let me just take a quick break here and tell you what happened on my way to Shabac, a town less than 90 kilometers to the west from Belgrade. I was driving and aware that I should be passing by another town by the name of Obrenovac. It’s almost a “straight line” on the

Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)
Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)

“As if those small birds have sung to me: ‘Go ahead, traveler! Travel your fatherland! Sure it is small, but it’s also more magnificent than any large empire. The soil you are stepping on – it is not the earth, it is the soil soaked in blood of your fathers and ancestors, since only the

Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)
Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)

The first idea for this trip came from Andrew Archibald Paton, the 19th century British diplomat, whose book I was fortunate to stumble upon in a local library one day. He was travelling through “Turkish lands” that, in those days, included vast parts of Serbia, still struggling with feeble Ottoman Empire.

Off to the 19th-century SERBIA!

British diplomat traveled through Balkans and Serbia in the middle of the 19th century and wrote a book about it. Now, two centuries later, I will let him escort me on my journey – through my own country! Read more about it in the Glimpses of the 19th-century Serbia special series!

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