Monthly Archives: January 2017

Serbia: UNFAMILIAR FACE IN A SMALL TOWN (15)
Serbia: UNFAMILIAR FACE IN A SMALL TOWN (15)

As I was told, down the same street where the Green Wreath hotel was, there was the only working restaurant I could eat in. It was more like a fast food stand, small, with glass case, grill in the corner, three tables outdoors and few inside. But they said the food was „the best in town“. (more…)

Serbia: LAVISH NATURE ALONG THE RIVER (14)
Serbia: LAVISH NATURE ALONG THE RIVER (14)

When you go further towards the town of Mali Zvornik, that is when the river Drina starts to appear here and there. The road was obviously patched numerous times, making my French “lion” jounce. (more…)

Serbia: THE GREEN WREATH, AGAIN? (13)
Serbia: THE GREEN WREATH, AGAIN? (13)

When arriving to Ljubovija town after short stop to Banja Koviljaca, the main thing to do was to find a place to stay. We were on the road all day long, tired of driving, of that rain drizzling along the way. The town was small and we did read about a “big old hotel” that was now closed for years. Hopefully, something will come up. (more…)

Serbia: WHERE HAS DRINA RIVER DISAPPEARED?! (12)
Serbia: WHERE HAS DRINA RIVER DISAPPEARED?! (12)

We got lost a bit, again, choosing „shortcuts“ rather than the regular road. It seems that Andrew Archibald Paton’s path wasn’t that clear either, even though he was „cruising“ the 19th century land on a horse. (more…)

Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)
Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)

Wanted to visit Banja Koviljacha spa center, and this is a short reminder of a legend regarding the place – before we go through Loznica town in the next Glimpse and before we actually reach Banja Koviljacha. (more…)

Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)
Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)

„Officer persuaded me to take a Highland ramble into the Gutchevo range, and first visit Tronosha… Ascending rapidly, we were soon lost in the woods, catching only now and then a view of the golden plain through the dark green oaks and pines. (more…)

Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)
Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)

On our way from Kaona Monastery, we didn’t go to the main road from Trshic village, since the town of Loznica iz only seven kilometers away – following some „shortcut“. But, what we didn’t know is that this road section was at the time utterly unusable. A lot of dirt, or sand was it? It was under construction! (more…)

Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)
Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)

„Through the richest land, forming part of the ancient banat of Matchva, which was in the earlier periods of Servian and Hungarian history so often a source of conflict and contention, we approached distant grey hills, which gradually rose from the horizon, and, losing their indistinctness, revealed a chain so charmingly accidented, that I quickened my pace, as if about to enter a fairy region“, Andrew Archibald Paton wrote about his trip from Shabac towards small town of Loznica – British diplomat who traveled through Serbia in the mid 19th century and wrote a book about it. We are following in his footsteps. (more…)

Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)
Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)

Even though our British diplomat didn’t get the chance to go to Kaona hill on the way to Loznica town, hidden by the forest and that curvy road that goes up and down, we were advised to make a quick stop to the Kaona Monastery. “Serene place”, they said, “beautiful temple in the middle of the forest glade.” Enough said, we were hooked! (more…)

Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)
Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)

On our way towards the Sava river, we passed by small craft stores and there were railway tracks as we were told (an old small train just went by!), and then the small intersection. It’s not possible to go to the shore just like that because there is no paved river bank. (more…)

Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)
Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)

Different influences are still to be seen in Shabac: downtown area has an old Austria-Hungarian charm, while small streets towards Sava river kept the feel of the Orient. The town was under the rule of both throughout history. There on Sava bank, there lies the famous fortress. It dates back to the 15th century when Turks were ruling the area. (more…)

Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)
Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)

„Surrendering our horses to the care of the khan keeper, I proceeded to the konak, or government house, to present my letters. This proved to be a large building, in the style of Constantinople, which, with its line of bow windows, and kiosk-fashioned rooms, surmounted with projecting roofs, might have passed muster on the Bosphorus. (more…)

Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)
Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)

So, let me just take a quick break here and tell you what happened on my way to Shabac, a town less than 90 kilometers to the west from Belgrade. I was driving and aware that I should be passing by another town by the name of Obrenovac. It’s almost a “straight line” on the map, no turns, the road just leads you there and I should be in Shabac in an hour or so. Just enough time to plan ahead, right! Our British diplomat spent some time there, so we will stay in Shabac for the night… (more…)

Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)
Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)

“As if those small birds have sung to me: ‘Go ahead, traveler! Travel your fatherland! Sure it is small, but it’s also more magnificent than any large empire. The soil you are stepping on – it is not the earth, it is the soil soaked in blood of your fathers and ancestors, since only the blood can spring out such lush abundance’”, it was written by Serbian author Janko Veselinovic in 1891 in his Ashick’s Grave novel. (more…)

Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)
Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)

The first idea for this trip came from Andrew Archibald Paton, the 19th century British diplomat, whose book I was fortunate to stumbled upon in a local library one day. He was travelling through “Turkish lands” that, in those days, included vast parts of Serbia, still struggling with feeble Ottoman Empire. (more…)

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